Most used cars are exactly what they look like, a fair deal from someone who's simply moving on. But a few minutes of careful checking before you hand over money is the difference between a reliable car and an expensive lesson. Here's what to actually look at.
Walk Around the Outside First
- Panel gaps and paint colour: Inconsistent gaps between panels, or a slightly different shade of paint on one door or guard, can point to previous crash repair.
- Rust: Check wheel arches, sills (the strip below the doors), and the boot floor under the carpet. Surface rust on an older car is normal; bubbling paint or rust you can push a finger through isn't.
- Tyre wear: Even wear across all four tyres is a good sign. Wear concentrated on one edge can indicate alignment or suspension issues.
- Panel and glass match: Check the build date stamped on window glass, if one window is years newer than the others, that panel has likely been replaced.
Check Under the Bonnet
- Oil: Pull the dipstick, oil should be amber to dark brown, not black and gritty, and should sit between the min/max marks.
- Coolant: Should look clean, not rusty or oily on top (oil in the coolant can point to a head gasket issue).
- Belts and hoses: Look for cracking, fraying, or obvious wear.
- Leaks: Ask to see the car started from cold, and look underneath for fresh drips once it's been running a few minutes.
Test Everything Inside
Before you drive it, sit in the car and go through every switch, button and screen, windows, mirrors, air conditioning (both hot and cold), infotainment, reverse camera, and all the warning lights on start-up. A dash full of lights that stay on after the engine catches is worth asking about before you go any further.
Match the Paperwork to the Car
The vehicle identification number (VIN) on the compliance plate, under the bonnet, and on the registration papers should all match. If you're buying privately, confirm the seller's name matches the registration certificate, if it doesn't, ask why. And always run a PPSR check before you pay anything.
What to Listen and Feel For on the Test Drive
- Start the car cold if you can, listen for knocking or rattling in the first few seconds.
- Brake firmly at low speed in a safe spot and check the car pulls up straight, not to one side.
- Check for play or vibration in the steering at speed.
- Run through every gear (or let an automatic cycle through its full range) and note any hesitation, clunking or slipping.
- Include some highway-speed driving if you can, some issues only show up once the car's warmed through and moving faster.
Common Red Flags and Scams
- Pressure to pay a deposit before you've inspected the car, a legitimate seller won't mind you looking first.
- A seller who won't meet at their home address, or who's selling on behalf of someone who "can't be there."
- A price well below similar listings, if it looks too good to be true, it usually is.
- No service history or paperwork, or a seller who's vague about how long they've owned the car.
- An odometer reading that doesn't match the car's condition, heavily worn pedal rubbers or a sagging driver's seat on a "low-km" car is worth questioning.
When to Bring in a Professional
If you've got no reservations after all of the above, that's a good sign. If you're still unsure, or you're buying privately and can't verify service history, a pre-purchase inspection from an independent mechanic (typically $150–$250) is cheap insurance against a costly surprise.
Every car in Pick A Ride's Melbourne used car showroom has already been through this checklist and comes with a current roadworthy certificate, browse our current stock to see what's available.